bangkok day 2


 

On our second day in the city we woke up hours before the sun in order to join the monks of Wat Pho on their daily circuit to collect alms; an experience we booked using the website Withlocals.com. As nearly 94% of Thailand’s population practices Buddhism, the religion is an extremely prevalent part of the country’s culture and the Thai way-of-life. With our appetite already wet from our experience at Wat Pa Tam Wua just days before, we were excited to get another taste of the ‘Land of Buddhism’, albeit this time in a more urban setting.

Monks are highly revered amongst the Buddhist lay community, who show their support by supplying food, medicine, clothes, and everyday items in exchange for spiritual guidance, blessings, and teachings by the monks. Early each morning, monks living at the various temples in Bangkok walk throughout the city to collect these food donations from the locals, and provide a blessing to them in return. The monks have taken vows to only eat the food that is given to them, so individuals and families will wait on their routes each morning to gift them a smorgasbord of home-made delights and/or items bought pre-packaged at the market. This particular day that we had joined happened to be a Buddhist holiday, so the Monks made out very well; by the end of our 1.5 hour walk each of the 6 people in our small cohort was carrying two big armloads of tasty looking donations. 

 

The Eiffel Tower, The Statue of Liberty, and The Grand Palace (well, sort-of). All tourist destinations that visually define the city they call home. It is near blasphemy to visit their cities and not shuffle through these mega-attractions just to say you did. That was the notion that compelled us to visit The Grand Palace, an ornate complex of buildings located in the center of Bangkok, which serves as the official and ceremonial place of residence for the monarchy. Though beautiful, our visit to The Grand Palace felt much more like business than pleasure as we sweat through our clothes packed shoulder to shoulder with a never-ending river of tourists from nearly every continent. Once inside, our goal was to get out as fast as possible; and maybe take in some of the beautiful architecture along the way. A Buddhist holiday, with celebratory visitors stacked so thick they seemed to be crawling out of the ornate tile-work, may not have been the best day to see The Grand Palace; but hey, at least now we can say we did it. 

In

bangkok day 1


 

Setting out on day 1 in Bangkok, we had to relearn just how to move throughout an enormous new foreign city. We quickly got acquainted and made use of an efficient water taxi system on the Chao Phraya River, one of the cheapest ways to make distance in the urban jungle. Wat Arun (The Temple of the Rising Sun) could be seen as we made our way upriver. 

 

Already wary of the tourist traps we were likely to encounter on our initial exploration, we immediately had to enter full defensive mode when our river taxi landed in the area surrounding the Grand Palace and Wat Pho (the tourist epicenter of the city). We quickly retreated from this area as Tuk Tuk drivers, Palace “security guards” and random passersby volleyed an onslaught of overpriced tour offers and other schemes to pry open our wallets. We hoofed it as fast as we could away from the scene and found ourselves in more local and far more interesting regions of the city. 

Eventually we made it to China Town, and were greeted with a heavenly assortment of food stalls lining the streets for blocks and blocks. We spent hours exploring and deciphering the multitude of exotic culinary offerings that were available at our fingertips. Once again, the rule of thumb dictating, “find the longest lines with locals and stand in them” served us very well. Noodle soup with pork bits, dumplings and fried bread for dessert were some of our favorite bites of the evening.

In

wat pa tam wua to bangkok


 

Leaving behind the atmosphere of quiet introspection that encapsulated Wat Pa Tam Wua, a day of travel separated us from the near-frantic energy and constant hum of the behemoth city Bangkok. After being rocked to sleep by the gentle sway of our sleeper train as it barreled through dark, unknown Thai countryside, we finally rolled into the metropolis with the rising of the sun. We idled gently through rail yards lined with the corrugated walls of improvised food stalls and homes. The skeletons of locomotives rendered obsolete by the cold passage of time looked on as our state-of-the-art steel snake paraded past. We disembarked as ready as anyone can be to experience the urban epicenter of Thailand.

In

wat pa tam wua day 4


 

Now fairly adapted to the demanding schedule at the Wat, and having had a true taste of Vipassana meditation, we had both become enthralled with the practice and were excited to continue making progress in our daily sessions. Though difficult, the overall experience was one of the most interesting and profound we have shared on this big adventure. Wat Pa Tam Wua is a very special place, situated in an other-worldly mountain oasis - we would highly recommend a stay for anyone seriously interested in exploring the mind and the self.

In

wat pa tam wua day 3


 

By the end of our second full day at Wat Pa Tam Wua we both began to feel a distinct progress in our meditation. Teachings given each day by the head monks contributed to a greater understanding of the Theravada Thai Forest Tradition of Buddhism and meditation, which helped us to progress in our practice. Insight into the Four Noble Truths, defilements, the differences between Vipassana & Samatha, as well as the various stages of Vipassana helped to guide our experience in meditation. We aimed to enter our first states of Vipassana: when a practicer can hold themselves in deep meditation, becoming an outside observer or "knower" of the sensations of their body and the thoughts floating through their head rather than the active participant. 

In

wat pa tam wua day 2


 

The schedule at Wat Pa Tam Wua Monastery is as follows:

5:00am: Wake up, practice meditation in your dorm or kuti

6:30am: Rice offering to the monks

7:00am: Breakfast (and stop in awe of the sunrise that consistently burns in the sky directly afterwards)

8:00am: Practice Vipassana in walking, sitting and laying positions (2hrs)

10:30am: Food offering to the monks

11:00am: Lunch, the last meal of the day

1:00pm: Practice Vipassana in walking, sitting and laying positions (2hrs)

4:00pm: Clean and tend to monastery area 

5:00pm: Relax with coffee and tea

6:00pm: Evening chanting with monks and Vipassana in the sitting position (2hrs)

8:00pm: Practice Vipassana in your room

10:00pm: Lights out, have a nights rest on the dorm or kuti floor mat

Participants can choose to refrain from speaking during their stay; we both elected to try this option.

In

wat pa tam wua day 1


 
paitowat-1.jpg
 

A visit to the Wat Pa Tam Wua Forest Monastery came highly recommended to us, and by the account we were given, we knew we couldn’t miss it. The facility is situated in a gorgeous mountainous region an hour and a half bus ride north of Pai. Anyone is welcome to stay and practice Vipassana Meditation for as long as they like on a donation basis. We arrived in time to eat a delicious vegan lunch before donning our white clothes and participating in our first two sessions, one of which was a walking meditation on the nearby hill sprinkled with caves, altars and statues dedicated to the Buddha. 

In

pai day 2


 

We woke up early on our second day in Pai so we could pack in as much action as possible. The highlight of the day was an early morning hike to Mae Yen Waterfall. Luckily we did some research online beforehand, as this was a pretty serious trek (14km out and back) that required plenty of water and proper footwear for its dozens of river crossings. The early morning paid off; when we made it to the waterfall we had it entirely to ourselves. On the way back out we issued cautious words of encouragement to set after set of ill-prepared, visibly hungover backpackers. Many of them probably joined a common statistic of hikers who end up having to turn around before reaching the isolated falls.

In