Before leaving Hanoi, Max had to take a quick motorbike ride to the wall he'd painted a few days before to get a proper day picture of the piece. Later that afternoon we sadly said goodbye to Vietnam and boarded a plane to our next country: Cambodia.
ha long bay day 2
On the second day of our Ha Long Bay cruise we visited some local floating villages via traditional wood boats. Viet people have been living and fishing this area for hundreds of years, but its UNESCO World Heritage status has created new regulations and restrictions on this lifestyle. Only some fishing villages still exist, and many fishermen now live on their boats for only few day stretches before having to return to land. House dogs are ubiquitous throughout Vietnam, and we were only a little surprised to see that that rule isn’t broken, even when your house is on the water.
ha long bay day 1
Our little travel group had arranged a couple of rooms on a Junk Cruise of Ha Long Bay and Bai Tu Long Bay. Another UNESCO World Heritage site full of incredible karst formations, the bay is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Vietnam. A fleet of cruise ships of all kinds — from classic-style wooden boats to modern, posh vessels — ferry tourists around the bay on sightseeing cruises with various activities. We particularly enjoyed our trip aboard the Treasure Junk which included a kayaking excursion from our boat on the first afternoon of the cruise; it was very cool to get up close and personal with the karst hills and cave systems within them.
hanoi day 2
With Tet Holiday only days away, the markets of Hanoi were a feast for the eyes. Packed to the brim with motorbikes, locals, tourists, gifts and brightly colored flowers, the local markets were both a must-see and a congested hazard. We enjoyed a bit of people watching before getting out of dodge to find some calmer environs.
Through a personal network, Max was linked up with Kid Nasty, a fixture in the Hanoi hip-hop subculture. Nasty owns an awesome vintage store, breakdances and upholds an old-school traditional style of graffiti. He was nice enough to invite Max to paint a wall with him during our stay. On a later date, he invited us both to a Tet celebration dinner with his breakdance team and other friends. We enjoyed Hot Pot on the floor of his apartment and were baffled at the hospitality we received despite a huge language barrier. Thanks Nasty!
hanoi day 1
We took an overnight train from Phong Nha and arrived in Hanoi early the next morning. We had arranged to spend a few days with Addie’s aunt Wyler and her travel buddy Ashton. That first day, Wyler introduced us to a contact from her hometown in Georgia, Chuck Searcy, who is a veteran of the Vietnam War. Chuck came back to the country in the early 1990's and has lived in Vietnam since. After moving, he helped to begin Project Renew, which is a non-profit organization devoted to managing the problem of unexploded ordinance scattered throughout the country as a result of the American conflict. Since its inception Project Renew has destroyed over 55,000 explosives and educated countless children and adults about how to keep themselves safe if they come across undetonated war remnants. Hearing his story was humbling and inspiring. One of the most unexpected benefits of this trip has been gaining a much clearer understanding of the Vietnam War (or rather the American War as it's referred to here) and its devastating effects.
On our first evening in Hanoi we went to a popular local restaurant called Chả Cá Thăng Long to try a famous Hanoian dish called Cha Ca. It’s a delicious meal consisting of fresh fish, greens, herbs and noodles that is cooked at the table in front of you. Pairs nicely with a cold Hanoi Beer draft.
phong nha day 3
On the second day of our Oxalis journey we explored Hang Va cave, which was considerably more difficult to navigate than Nuoc Nut. The cave required a number of waist-high frigid river crossings, claustrophobic rocky passages, and traversing with rope and harness. Hang Va is home to some of the rarest conical cave formations in the world. Pictured here is a breathtaking waterfall at the terminus of the cave.
After 5-6 hours in Hang Va, we hiked through the thick jungle to make it back to the road. Smiles were in good supply when we were surprised with cold beers to celebrate a successful trek with an eclectic group of adventurers from all around the world.
phong nha day 2
One of our main reasons for visiting this area was a 2-day caving trek that we had arranged with Oxalis, the premiere adventure outfitter in Phong Nha. The Hang Va Expedition overnight journey included a trek through rugged karst jungle and visits to 2 caves in the area. On the first day we visited Nuoc Nut cave and enjoyed a picnic in the entrance. We then spent about 5 hours exploring the cave and photographing some of its most impressive formations. That evening we clambered down a treacherously sharp and steep rocky hillside to base camp, where we were excited to enjoy some of the best Vietnamese food we’d eaten yet; cooked in the middle of the jungle by Oxalis’ amazing local chefs.
phong nha day 1
Phong Nha–Kẻ Bàng is a national park and UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s one of the largest karst areas in the world; the unique topography and extensive cave system were created over time as water eroded the limestone formations. It has only recently become a tourist destination, as some of its most impressive caves (including Son Doong, the largest cave in the world) were just discovered in the early 21st century.
On our first day in Phong Nha we explored Paradise Cave. Paradise is one of the most accessible caves in the area and is a popular destination for tourists. Its dramatically lit formations were an awe-inspiring introduction to the subterranean environment of Phong Nha. The cave has a wooden walkway installed for about 1 kilometer, but guided tours can venture much deeper into the vast 7-or-so kilometer long system.
hoi an day 4
Ancient Town Hoi An is a feast of rich texture and color. The old French Colonial style buildings are adorned with a patinaed golden hue, and topped off with enchanting wear and tear; gifts of time and the humid climate. There are many theories as to why all of the buildings here are painted yellow, some say it is representative of royalty while others believe it is for the practical reason of deflecting sunshine and absorbing less heat.
Hoi An is home to some very historic buildings, some constructed hundreds of years ago. Pictured here is the Fujian Assembly Hall erected by the Vietnamese in 1690. It was created as a place for Fujian Chinese people to congregate and socialize while visiting or living in Hoi An. Ornate altars to a variety of Buddhist figures populate the interior of the building.